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19 Sep 2007

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Copyright® 2004 American Clipper Owners Club. All rights reserved.

2/1/00
Q #1005:I have a '76 rear kitchen model Clipper with swivel chairs needing upholstering. How are they fastened to the platform. Are there seat covers available anywhere that I can purchase to cover over without removing the seats? Other than these seats, the rest of the motorhome is in excellent shape and we just love it. 
Al Zandys

A: Each chair has four bolts which are part of a square metal base under the chair going through the platform where the chairs and center console (with the two drawers) are mounted on. In the space where the generators is (if you have one) and the space behind the coach battery next to the right rear wheel well (from below) are eight nuts (four for each chair) with washers above them that fasten the chair to the platform. In order to get to those eight nuts you have to remove the center console. Then try pulling the chairs forward towards the dinette. If you are lucky (as I was) there are no (wood) screws along the inside of the outside wall that hold the platform down. If you are not so lucky you have to take the first 2 or 3 inches of the carpet up to get to two or three or four screw along the inside of the outside wall. Then pull the chairs towards the dinette, (the platform hinges on the screws that hold the platform down on the dinette side) find the right spanner or ratchet to remove the eight nuts from under the platform, remove the chairs and let the platform go back down. Not easy, but it can be done. Preferably do it with two people. One holding the chairs and platform up under an angle and one to work the nuts. If you don't have a generator you can most likely do the four nuts on that side (left chair) from the outside through the generator compartment door. Then take the chairs to an upholstery place and get them covered! Good luck! 
Paul #2905 

1/31/00
Q #1004: I just got a 1977 21-foot Clipper, on a Dodge 440, and when I was working on the clearance lights I accidentally blew a fuse. I haven’t been able to find the fuse block for the truck. Can you or someone tell me where it is located? Thanks.
Dave Shortess, #3050

2/11/00
A #1004: The fuse block in my 1977 Dodge in under the dash on the drivers side just to the left of the steering column. It may also be in the engine compartment near the battery.

Kevin

1/27/00
Q #1003: There is a gas canister under the passenger side of the Clipper, and when I try to fill the gas tank, this canister will lead and spill gas out underneath the Clipper. This is very dangerous. The question is: does this need replacing or can I eliminate this canister? I'm sure someone has had this problems, so need some answers, before my next trip this spring.
J. Karnes - ACOC # 2984

1/29/00
A #1003: J. Karns #2984. I am not sure I have the answer that you need, but does the gas leak on the ground under the fuel tank, or under the drivers cab? If it leaks under the fuel tank when filling the tank, and the fuel doesn't leak until the tank is filled it means the rubber fuel vent lines on top of the tank are rotted and should be replaced. This requires removing the gas tank for access. If it leaks under the cab, then a fuel canister, located there, may be leaking. You may have leaking hoses there, or maybe something is wrong with the canister. Consult a mechanic for information on the canister.. All gas hoses should be checked for leaks or replaced at least once a year. A fuel hose in the line between the fuel pump and the carburetor is especially dangerous as a fire hazard. We (ACOC members) have had fires from this. You should have a metal fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor.
Mark #1077

1/27/00
Q #1003: There is a gas canister under the passenger side of the Clipper, and when I try to fill the gas tank, this canister will lead and spill gas out underneath the Clipper. This is very dangerous. The question is: does this need replacing or can I eliminate this canister? I'm sure someone has had this problems, so need some answers, before my next trip this spring.
J. Karnes - ACOC # 2984

1/29/00
A #1003: J. Karns #2984. I am not sure I have the answer that you need, but does the gas leak on the ground under the fuel tank, or under the drivers cab? If it leaks under the fuel tank when filling the tank, and the fuel doesn't leak until the tank is filled it means the rubber fuel vent lines on top of the tank are rotted and should be replaced. This requires removing the gas tank for access. If it leaks under the cab, then a fuel canister, located there, may be leaking. You may have leaking hoses there, or maybe something is wrong with the canister. Consult a mechanic for information on the canister.. All gas hoses should be checked for leaks or replaced at least once a year. A fuel hose in the line between the fuel pump and the carburetor is especially dangerous as a fire hazard. We (ACOC members) have had fires from this. You should have a metal fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor.
Mark #1077

1/27/00
4/6/99- Bob #2626 to Mark #1077 All my information from the news letters tell me that the size of the gas tank is a result of year model, and therefore has nothing to do with a generator being installed.

Answer from Mark #1077 which asked today (1/27/00) Irv Perch (the man who built the American Clippers in the 70's) about the gas tanks: How did he decide what size gas tank to use?

Answer from Irv Perch: He said that all the Dodges came with a 20 gal tank, which he removed and threw away. He had a vendor supply him with 36 gal tanks that were coated both inside and out, and this was the standard tank which he used. However, he recalls that when a Clipper was equipped with a generator, the generator drew its gasoline from the main gas tank, and he believes he installed a 50 gal tank on those models.

Q #1001: I'm having a battery drain problem. It seems that my vehicle battery does just fine (good start-up) when my 1976 Clipper sits for several weeks in storage. However, when I hook up to shore power for a few days before a trip, or when we are actually camping, the battery loses its charge and I am unable to get any engine cranking. Is the hooking up to shore power somehow draining the vehicle battery? The house battery seems to trickle charge just fine at these times. Is this a short somewhere in the system? Please...any advice and guidance would be most welcome.
Doug Kreitz, #2925

A #1001: Doug, you have a strange problem that probably should be checked out by an electrician. I have two ideas you might consider before you give up.

1. With the ignition OFF, there should be no connection between the chassis and coach batteries because of the 'Isolator Device'. If current is getting around that device with the ignition OFF, replace the isolator. They are available at any RV store. Also see if you have any electrical device in the coach which comes on when you plug into shore power, and that may be connected to the chassis battery.

2. Have the chassis battery checked out for internal shorts. Sears will do this for you.

Mark #1077

7/15/99 Horst 3200 rpm is give or take about right. If you are getting 9mpg you are doing better than average. Bob #2626

7/4/99-Brent You are running hotter than average. Suspect your new thermostat has to have an 1 1/2 inch opening to do the proper job. Volume is the key. A proper unit has not been available from Mopar for a long time. If it is not a unit with an 1 1/2 inch opening it wont pass enough water to cool properly, One such proper thermostat is an a after market item Mr. GASKET #4367 as carried in Clip Jr. The correct water pumps are the Chrysler competition model and the Edelbrock #8814 victor series [News letter #56-8].

Q #1000: I just had my Thermoquad rebuilt. It had a slight hesitation at 3/4 throttle. What a mistake. Now it runs great at freeway speeds but sputters, chokes, coughs and wheezes when I am accelerating. I took it back to the shop and they could not fix it. I have 2 questions: 1- are they missing something and 2- what is the best replacement carburetor. I have a dodge 440. Any ideas. Thanks. 
Bob Raymond #2945

A #1000: What is the best carburetor for the 440 engine? This question has been asked hundreds of times over the last 20 years. The most frequent answer we hear is that the Carter Thermoquad is the best suited for this engine. If it isn't working properly, then find some one who knows what they are doing. When its working right, there is none better. You might call Dale in Morgan Hill, California. Tel: 408-779-1403 or Voice Mail 408-406-1891. Discuss it with him, he is an expert on carbs.

Mark #1077

The Thermoquad is a very good carburetor for the 440's, it sounds like the old problem they for years, which is when they switched from leaded to unleaded fuels, the rubber on the accelerator pumps in the carb started breaking down and caused a flat spot and some idling problems. Any repair shop that deals in carburetors should know that problem and have the replacement part number, I just replaced the complete carb on mine last year. One more thing they are famous for is a cracks in the float bowl, causing it to suck fuel when they warm up.

Hope this helps,
Kevin

12/8/99 - Question #1299.3 - John #3029 asks:
Generator Problems
I have a Dometic generator which I am told is the same as the Generac. It has carburetor problems and probably needs a tune up. Where can I find parts for this generator?
Alternatively, any recommendations on finding a used Onan in decent shape?
Thanks, John

responds:
1/22/00 John try your nearest Themoking dealer. They are the Onan dealers and will also fix your Generac. Probable cost for a new carburetor and all adjustments: $150.00 to $200.00. 
Bob #2626.

12/8/99 - Question #1299.3 - John #3029 asks:
Generator Problems
I have a Dometic generator which I am told is the same as the Generac. It has carburetor problems and probably needs a tune up. Where can I find parts for this generator?
Alternatively, any recommendations on finding a used Onan in decent shape?
Thanks, John

responds:
1/22/00 John try your nearest Themoking dealer. They are the Onan dealers and will also fix your Generac. Probable cost for a new carburetor and all adjustments: $150.00 to $200.00. 
Bob #2626.

12/5/99 - Question #1299.2 - Brent #2973 asks:
Clipper Curtains
I want to replace the track type slide curtains in my clipper (windshield and loft) as mine are soiled after 22 yrs and many clips are broken off. Anyone have an idea where to buy them?
Brent

responds:
Brent, you need  "tape a drape". It is or was available from clipper jr. Check with the supply officer. Bob#2626.

11/19/99 - Question #1199.5 - John #3029 asks:
Service & Repair in San Jose area
My Dodge 440 Clipper needs service - nothing major, just routine maintenance like wheel bearings, tune up, etc. Any recommendations in the San Jose, Santa Clara, Sunnyvale, or Mountain View (California) area?
Specifically, anyone have any experience with Calabazas RV and Truck Repair in Santa Clara? I've seen the earlier positive report from Tim W. on Peter at 1st Gear Auto Repair in Santa Clara. Any suggestions of good shops (or shops to stay away from) will be greatly appreciated. John Wilkes


Mark #1077 responds:
I have two very good references for you. I have had a Clipper for 16 years, and these people have given me excellent service. I have referred them to others, and they report the same results. They are:
For general mechanical work and tune-ups:
Bob's Auto Repairs, 781 Parker St. Santa Clara, CA 95050
(408) 748-9096

For carburetors and all vehicle electric work:
Dale's Mobile Electric, 800-C Burnett Ave., Morgan Hill, CA 95037
(408) 779-1403, VM (408) 406-1891

Dale provides a mobile service, and he comes to you where ever you are. Both of these men have very reasonable rates and do excellent work.

1/22/00 Bob, complete Ride Rite information in news letter #56 (march 1997).
 Bob#2626

1/22/00 Bob, complete Ride Rite information in news letter #56 (march 1997).
 Bob#2626

This is great information from the man (Perch) who had  the American Clipper vision 27 years ago. Thank you Mark for sharing this with us - Webmaster. 

11/9/99 - Question #1199.1 - George #0651, asks:
Paint
Tired of loosing hub caps, I want to paint my wheels. Anyone know the paint color # for the base cream color. George.

Horst #2961 responds:
Plasticoat Polar White #1560 - it's a great match for Clipper white, both the coach and wheels and cab. (Michael Sasso shared that one with me) - and as I noted in an earlier Tips and Hints post, (which is in the Archives), that paint works great for the cab entry section of your Clipper as well.

10/26/99 - Question #1099.7 - David #2953, asks:
Horns
Have just completed replacement of the 5 upper rear marker lamps, (whew!) and have one more electrical problem.(for the present). Horns are silent. Pulled horn bar and have current but am unable to even find them. Would appreciate any info as to location, wire code, routing, and substitute horns. Thanks much.

Eric #3021 responds:
I just got my horns working. Both are bolted to the sheet metal on either side of the radiator. One is located under the battery, the other is located under the heater fan ducting box on the passenger side. Look under the front right wheel well and you can get to that horn. My drivers side horn didn't work because an ancient battery acid spill had rendered the spade connection useless. While I was rebuilding the battery tray I cleaned up the connection. applied WD40 and it worked again. The passenger side horn needed adjustment. Many horns declared dead just need readjustment of the contacts via the adjustment screw. The screw is near the electrical spade connector. Tighten it if the spade connector shows open to ground. Loosen if shorted to ground. Good luck.

10/25/99 - Question #1099.6 - David #3013, asks:
Cruise Control Servo Unit
Looking for a Replacement for my Cruise Control Unit (Servo). Local parts store no longer carry this item for the Dodge 440 and have no information on it. The local Dodge dealer will special order it but wants a lot of money. Has any other member who needed to replace this item and found a cheaper way? David.

Eric #3021 responds:
I too am about to address my non-functional cruise control. Has anyone had luck repairing these? Any tips? I am planning to give it a try. If I fail there's always J. C. Whitney. I had good luck with a $99 unit in a Chevy van several years ago.

Ernie #2891 responds:
I don't know if this is the answer your looking for. I was driving around in my neighborhood a couple of months ago when I spotted another "Clipper". I stopped to talk to the guy. He wasn't the owner but a former mechanic for Chrysler. He was buddies with the owner and was doing some repair work on the motor. Since he had the doghouse off I asked him about my cruise control, that it didn't work. He told me "don't bother". That it was a lousy design and he didn't know how maney times he had repaired those controls onlyto have them go bad again. So I have been looking in J C Whitney's catalog at their aftermarket controls. There are one or two that might mount in the approximate location. I haven't bought one yet because I haven't had the time to play around. But with winter coming I probably will.

Mark #1077 responds:
I went through the same thing you are. The original cruise on 1975 thru 1978 which uses a vacuum system was not very reliable. I bought a rebuilt from Dodge and it failed in 6 months. I finely bought one at Sears for $70 and had a speedometer shop install it for $100, and I never had a problem with it after that. The best type is the one that uses a magnet on the drive shaft with a pick up sensor, and is also connected with sparkplug #1 for timing. Later 1978 and 1979 & 1980 Clippers used a different type, but they were better than the earlier models. Sears and Wards may not have them anymore, but ask at speedometer shops for them. The J. Whitney catalog from Chicago may sell them.

Responds #2:

It sound like your vent line may be collapsed, have the vent line checked from the top of the tank to the vent canister, another thing you can try is leave the gas cap open one notch so it gets vented that way and see if the problem stops.

Kevin

10/9/99 - Question #1099.3 - Ken & Chris, asks:
Vapor Lock/Ignition Problem
We have a 1979 Clipper with a rebuilt 1976 440 with an rv cam. When it gets thoroughly warm, the engine will die. It will not start up again until it cools off completely and then runs fine until it gets fully warm again. We replaced both fuel filters, electric fuel pump, and mechanical fuel pump. Does this sound like vapor lock? Our gas cap is loose, so there's no seal there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Horst #2961, responds:
I had a somewhat similar problem with my Dodge 360 - when I first fired it up, it ran great, but after it got real good and hot, it would run terrible and die at idle (at a stop signs, etc.) and then it would be difficult to start. (I had a wild return trip for San Simeon on my maiden Clipper voyage with this problem!) It turned out to be a leaking intake manifold gasket, along with a carburetor that need rebuiding - runs like a top now! (This is for info purposes only of course - I have no idea what the cause of your problem is - as it could be many things, including ignition problems, manifold leaking, carburator/mixture problems, electrical, etc. Don't despair - the answer is coming soon I'm sure.)

Mark #1077, responds:
I also have a 1979, 440 Dodge, and had a similar problem. My carburetor has a solenoid valve on the rear of the carb at about the 7 O'Clock position when looking forward. There is one wire going to this valve. This solenoid must become active when the ignition is turned ON. Mine did not.
This valve seals the carb. reservoir to prevent the fuel therein from evaporating when the vehicle is not in use. When the ignition is turned ON the solenoid lifts the seal and exposes the reservoir to atmospheric pressure. Now the fuel can free flow through the carb. If this valve remains OFF, the carb will use up the fuel in the reservoir and then will not get enough fuel flow from the pump. The engine acts like it suffers from fuel starvation, and has no power at all. Please let me know if this corrects the problem.

Bob #2626 responds: Ken&Chris. Two heat effected parts to check first for the problem you described are your ignition coil and your electronic control module.

Kevin responds: Your stalling problem when the engine gets hot sounds like it could be a
couple of things. First check and see if the engine starts to flood, if so then have the float bowl of your carburetor checked, the Thermoquads are famous for this. Second if it is not fuel related, have
your electronic ignition control unit & coil checked, when these unit get hot they can sometimes break down shutting down the spark to the engine and may not restart until they are completely cooled down.

Good luck
Kevin

10/8/99 - Question #1099.2 - Eric asks:
TV Mounting
I'd like to put a TV into our recently purchased, pre-owned 1978 rear-kitchen clipper (821F). I'd like to avoid re-inventing the wheel, so some of you share with me:
1) what size TV did you use?
2) where and how did you mount it?
3) where (exactly) did you mount the crank up antenna?
4) where is the antenna cable routed?
thanks!


Sherm A. #2669 responds:
My 821 FC rear kitchen model had a swiveling TV bracket mounted above the rear seat of the Dinette. Lowe's sells three sizes of swivel brackets. I bought an Orion 9" combo TV/VCR which works well but we seldom used the VCR and it weighs more than a plain color set. We always put the TV on the floor for travel. I wired the coach speakers out of the JVC stereo dash radio to give surround sound. Rather than a roof antenna, I had a Direct TV dish and reciever box. If you spend a lot of time in the RV, the dish is great.

Mark S., responds:
I do not recommend using a roof-top antenna.
1. You have to drill holes in the roof which eventually will leak.
2. Someday you will drive away and forget to lower it to the down position, and rip it off.
3. Winegard makes an antenna which attaches to the side of the coach and when not in use, recedes into a tube attached to the coach.

10/6/99 - Question #1099.1 - John (future member!), asks:
Gas Cap
I recently bought a Clipper, and the locking gas cap does not fit well. It is pretty loose and does not make a good seal. Any recommendations for a replacement? Thanks!


Horst #2961 responds:
I just use a "generic" locking cap that available from most any auto parts store - seems to work pretty good. I'll check what brand it is and post it here soon. John, by the way, mine is a Stant as well, see Sherm's post below)

Sherm A. #2669 responds:
Most auto parts and major discount stores have a Stant display and product guide book. Look up the Dodge van's up through 1979; I think they are all the same number. I have a spare cap in good condition I'll sell for $10 plus shipping.

Bob #2626 responds: Dennis In addition to the possibilities listed, Try news letter 55-5&55-7 Idler pulley installation. Also check news letter 60-1 & 60-5 -in supply officers column. re// dual belt power steering pump pulleys. We encountered the exact problem you described. When I put the proper heavy duty fan clutch on our clipper. The solution was the installation of the FORD dual belt power steering pump pulley as described in 60-5. The pulley is FORD #E3uc3 dc73ca. It is an exact fit ,and the squeal is gone. 

9/1/99 - Question #999.1 - Steve, ACOC#1920 asks:
Kitchen Faucet
I have a 1978 Clipper with a side kitchen. My Volrath kitchen faucet leaks up past the O-rings, when the water pump is turned on. I replaced the O-rings with new O-rings and it still leaks. I would like to know if Volrath faucet are still available for our Clippers? If they are not, is there a faucet that I can replace it with?

Bob #2626 responds:
9/1/99-q#999-1- Steve Volrath faucets and parts are not available. Replacements are .One such is the DELTA 101-wf single handle kitchen faucet [NEWS LETTER 61-8] and probably others listed in the news letters.

8/30/99 - Question #899.5 - Ernie ACOC #2891 asks:
Helper Springs/Suspension
I WAS UNDER MY CLIPPER YESTERDAY LOOKING AROUND WHEN I NOTICED WHAT LOOKED LIKE HELPER SPRINGS MOUNTED ON TOP OF THE EXISTING LEAF SPRINGS. WHEN I HAVE HAD IT SERVICED I HAVE HAD THE COMMENT THAT SHE LOOKED HIGH IN THE REAR. MY QUESTION IS WHETHER THEY ARE HELPER SPRINGS AND ARE ORIGINAL OR AFTER MARKET. THEY ARE CLAMPED TO THE LEAF SPRINGS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE AXLE. I HAVE A 1977 DODGE 21 FT REAR KITCHEN MODEL

Response 2/25/00
This is Ernie # 2891. During the last rally I talked and looked under
several rigs and found that I had after market helper springs.

Thanks !!