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6/14/00
Question: I recently purchased a 1979 American Clipper. My Clipper has a rear kitchen and a Dodge
440 engine. I would like to know its dimensions because I want to have it shipped or driven from San Francisco to Tennessee.
Could you please tell me the weight, height and width of the motorhome? Even a ballpark would help. Thank you very much.
I look forward to hearing from any of your (our) members.
Suzanna Brabant, ACOC #: I have sent in my membership application!
6/17/00
Answer: I went out to the street with a tape
measure and I came up with these approximate numbers. The weight number I got
from Mark Smith probably a year ago and this is the number I remember....... If
anybody has better or more exacter numbers let the webmaster know.
Paul Devlas, ACOC #2905
6/7/00
Question: I need to buy a generator for my Clipper. I need it strong enough to run the roof
air. Should I buy a portable one or permanent one and what size should it be?
Thanks, Mitch
P.S. My wife and I just signed up for the membership.
6/7/00
Hi! I just bought my 21' 1977 clipper this month and am having a great time
discovering what a fine machine it is. As I was resealing around the vents, I was
amazed at the one piece roof construction. It appears to be in fine shape with a
very little bit of pitting in the finish. I wondered what, if any method or product
exists to protect the finish from sun damage over the years. Also I was curious as
to the framework under the monolithic panels. Is it a wood frame, as in other camper
units, or is it a solid plywood panel? I would love to see a cross section detail
of how these units are built. P.S. I am sending in my membership to join your club
right now. I can't wait to get the newsletters and info!
Tim Kmetz, ACOC member soon.
This guy got the picture! I look forward to
seeing him on the next American Clipper rally! - Webmaster.
6/7/00
I know of no special attention required to protect the roof over the years. The fiberglass is approx. 3/8'' to 1/4'' thick and very strong.
It can be walked on without danger of breaking through. Under the fiberglass all around are reinforced plywood and framework panels.
Attend our next National rally and I will show a series of slides taken while the Clipper was being built. It shows the under paneling and lay
out of wiring and plumbing and many other interesting things about the Clipper.
Mark ACOC #1077
6/6/00
My wife and I just purchased a 1976 21' Clipper. I would like to find an original
owners manual. Either original or photo copy would be fine. Thanks, Mitch.
6/7/00
Answers: For Mitch: There was never an owners manual for the Clipper coach. There is an
electrical schematic for the coach purchased from Clip Jr. There was a package of appliance manuals (for all appliances) with every Clipper
when it was sold new. And it is possible to find a Chrysler chassis manual for the year of your Dodge, and possibly also for the Chevy
chassis. All Chevy chassis were 1978 models with 400 engines no matter what year your DMV title says.
Regarding the price (question on 6/3/00): I had a 1976 Clipper, Dodge 440 engine, rear
kitchen, with no generator or roof air conditioning. The DMV rated its original value at $15,300.
Mark ACOC#1077
All the back issues of the American Clipper
Owners Club Newsletter (with index) function as a manual for the American
Clipper "C class" Motorhome. Once you are a member ($20 for a year)
you can buy all back issues (back to 1982) for $55 (including the index.) These
back issues contain all problems and solutions owners have experienced with
their Clippers. Some problems have more than one solution volunteered by
different members. You choose the one that applies to you. If you can't find a
solution post your question on the website and there is a good chance that on of
the veteran owners of a Clipper (maybe Captain Clipper himself!) will, from
experience, supply you with an answer. Become a member and your worries are half
over. - Webmaster.
6/5/00
Question: Why am I having a problem filling the gas tank, even on a slow gas feed, when the
vehicle is hot? This does not occur when the engine/vehicle is cold.
Colleen McGrath, ACOC #: tbd soon!
6/4/00
Guys, just a quick couple of questions:
I picked up the 24' Clipper on Friday and my wife and two grandchildren and I "camped out" that night in it. (We are fortunate to live within one mile
on a large lake that has a wonderful camping area.)
On Saturday, as I was driving the Clipper to purchase some supplies, the engine sputtered and stopped. It was about 90 degrees and I was driving
about 60 miles per hour. The oil pressure was good and the temperature gauge indicated the engine was not overheating. The radiator was not
overflowing. I was able to pull off safely to the side of the road. However, after trying everything I could guess at, I was still unable to get
the engine to start so I had the Clipper towed to a Dodge dealership not far
away.
As I was awaiting the tow truck, I read through the Clipper newsletters. My guess is that this vehicle may have suffered from the dreaded "vapor lock"
that I read about. However, that does not explain why I was unable to start the engine today (Sunday) when the engine was cold. I even tried using
starting fluid [ether] but that didn't help. The engine cranks just fine but doesn't seem to be getting either gas or perhaps there is a problem with
the ignition system.
My other guess is the white resistor that is approximately 1 inch wide and 3 inches long that is mounted to the aft section of the engine compartment.
(I happened to find a replacement resistor in the glove box that must have been left there by the prior owner.) I don't know if the prior owner put a
"bad" resistor back in the box or whether it was a new one. I did replace the resistor that had been mounted with the one I found in the glove box but
the engine still didn't start.) The auto parts stores were all closed so I wasn't able to purchase another one to see if the resistor was the problem.
I have left the unit at the Dodge dealership and I'll let them try to figure it out. If you have any ideas, I would appreciate your getting back to me.
Thanks allot.
Dennis, ACOC # 3039
I didn't get a chance to check out/replace the fuel filters but I don't understand why a problem with these would cause the engine to suddenly stop
and cause it not to be able to be started.
Oh well, I had forgotten the joys of owning a Clipper!
6/5/00
Answer 1: Where is the 24' clipper located now? I know someone in Morgan Hill who could fix it. In my opinion, it is
either an electrical or a gas problem. Have you checked the gas tank for gas? It sounds to me like an electrical
problem. The Dodge mechanics will probably check the spark plugs for spark. If it isn't found,
that's a good
place to start troubleshooting. Next check the distributor, then the coil. If you get no power to the coil, it is likely
an electrical problem in the ignition switch. Other places where an electrical problem could occur are the
electronic module, or the ballast resistor. The old resistor can be checked for continuity with a volt/ohm meter to
tell if it is ok. If this resistor is shorted, the engine will turn over, but will not start.
That's your problem. Check and/or replace the ballast resistor first. Good luck with it. Let me know what it was when you find the problem.
Mark ACOC #1077
6/5/00
Answer 2: This is for Dennis, #3039 and might be useful for others. The white ceramic resistor
you refer to is the dropping resistor that lowers the battery voltage to 6 volts for
the ignition coil. When cranking the engine with the starter this resistor is shorted out by a relay to provide a hotter spark for starting. There is a sure
indication if this resistor fails. The engine will start normally, then immediately
die when the key is released to disengage the starter. These fail often enough that
everyone should carry a spare, as your previous owner did. It plugs in on the firewall up behind the battery.
Your problem doesn't sound like the resistor, since it wouldn't start at all.
Harold Potter, ACOC #0886
I heard from a reliable source that the origin of
the problem was a wire that had fallen off the alternator..... Is that correct
Dennis? - Webmaster.
6/3/00
My wife and I are about to buy a 1976 American Clipper 21' with rear kitchen. Our insurance company would like to know the original purchase
price. Can anyone help? Thanks, Mitch.
6/3/00
Questions:
A- I am going to replace the old water heater that now runs on only LP. Is it possible to replace it with a water heater that runs on LP and 110 AC?
B- I am going to replace the old heater that now runs on only LP. Is it possible to replace it with a
catalytic heater that runs on both LP and 110 AC?
C- Can you recommend a brand and place to purchase/install these in the San Jose area?
Thanks Again, Mitch
6/4/00
Mitch. It is not recommended that you replace the hot water heater, or the furnace. That would be very costly.
Answer: A - You can buy a HOT ROD which is an electric probe that runs on 110 ac.
This probe is inserted into your present hot water tank. It can be switched to turn on or off when you are on shore power. You can also
still use the LP gas if you are not on shore power. Cost about $40. Warning: Don't turn Hot Rod on when water is drained from your tank.
Answer: B - Keep your present LP furnace the way it is and get yourself an
electric heater w/ fan that runs on 110 ac. There are many to chose from at about $35.
I think most RV stores have these items. Camper World should have them.
Mark, ACOC #1077
6/2/00
Question: I am considering buying a 1976 American Clipper. Are parts readily
available for this model?
Harley
6/2/00
Answer: Harley, between the auto parts store such
as Kragen selling Mopar Dodge 440 and 360 engine spare parts and the ACOC
(American Clipper Owners Club) which stocks hard to get spare parts for members
(membership $20/yr) both for the coach and the Dodge engine, you should be OK.
The ACOC has over 600 members with over 600 Clippers and with each others help
we all manage easily. Kragen sells a complete new Dodge 440 rebuilt engine for
$1,495 (with returning the old engine) and $1,995 without. Dodge and I presume
Chevy engines are still very much alive and spare parts available from several
sources.
Paul Devlas, ACOC#2905
6/1/00
Folks, On June 1, 2000 I purchased a 24 foot long American Clipper near Dallas, TX.
I have the following questions:
-
What tires would you recommend?
-
Where would I find out what is the sequential number of
this particular Clipper?
-
Does anyone have a list of who currently owns 24'
Clippers?
-
I would be interested in starting a subchapter WITHIN the
ACOC of 24' owners. Anyone else interested?
Since 1979 I have owned (and still do) a 21 foot Clipper which I keep in Sunnyvale
California. I have many happy memories of our trips in this unit. I am looking
forward to many more trips in our 24' unit. It is unbelievably more spacious.
(Hey! A guy can justify anything he wants to buy! $7,000.00 seemed a good price!)
Thanks, Dennis Riordan, ACOC #
6/1/00
Question: Please let me know where we can get the shades for the windows. Our model is a 1978
21 foot, rear kitchen.
Sandy Staab, ACOC #3079
5/31/00
Question: Is there more than one fuse panel in 1978
American Clipper? I lost my brake lights. I have located the fuse panel just to the right of the steering
column that contains (radio, acc, heat, cigarette lighter, ext., inst.) fuses but
I can not find the fuse for the brake lights.
William E. Goen, ACOC #3088
5/31/00
Question: Who has
Thorley headers on their Dodge 440? Are they worth the money? Did you gain
anything either in power or gas mileage or both? Are you glad you installed them
or would it be better if you had gotten a new exhaust manifold? Please let me
know your findings. Thanks.
Dennis, ACOC #2999
5/30/00
I have been reading the Journals and several places it say I should have a list of
things and prices I can get from Clip Jr. I have no such thing but would like to
have. What do I need to get it? I bought my Clipper a 76 dodge in November of 19 99. Headed
for Arizona on 1-4-00. Every thing was fine but the kitchen faucet run a stream when
the pump was on.( I didn't fill until mid CA.) I tried along the way to get it fixed. No luck. Finally found a Delta at
Blyth, CA. and a friend put it on for me . Works great. New owner and member:
Maude, ACOC #3064
5/30/00
What is the replacement faucet for the Volrath. I know a member found one that works just fine, but I'll be darned if I can find
it in the Journal. (My eyes are dim, I cannot see.........)
Paul #2559
Isn't it amazing that a remark from Maude (#3064)
is the answer on Paul's question on the same day? Paul I don't even want to put
a line between the information Maude shares with us and your question of
5/30/00. I hope the light ""flash"" returns to you eyes now
Paul #2559 - Webmaster.
5/29/00
Question: I am looking for the stock paint color code numbers and manufacturer for
the paint of a 1976 American Clipper. Your help is most appreciated. Thank you.
Isabel Denney
5/31/00
Answer: The paint codes for 1975, 76, 77, 78 Clippers that have the deep orange strip
are listed in one of the back issues of the ACOC Newsletter #37, dated Nov. 1991, page
14. Actual paint formulas are listed on pages 15 and 16. These paints can be purchased from any ACME paint supplier in the country.
All back issues are available to ACOC members for $55 including index from Clip
Jr. the parts supply store for ACOC members.
NOTE: San Jose, CA has environmental restrictions which run the cost of this paint to twice it's normal price. In Santa Cruz or other
non-restricted areas the same paint costs half the price of that in San Jose.
Mark, ACOC #1077
5/24/00
Question: Does anyone know where we can get a Servo Cruise Control for our 440 American Clipper?
Thanks, Jim & Kris, ACOC #3401
5/28/00
Answer: If your Clipper is an early 1977 or earlier model, and the servo is
mounted on top rear of the transmission under the dog house, my experience has been they aren't worth fixing. Bad design, and I could
not keep them working. I threw good money after bad. I bought a rebuilt one from Chrysler, and it also failed in 6 months. Talk to a speedometer
shop about which type is best to use. I finely bought one from Sears which employed magnets on the drive shaft, and was timed to spark plug #
1. A speedometer shop installed it for me and I never had another problem again.
If your Clipper is a late 1977 or later, I think this type unit can be repaired and adjusted.
Mark ACOC #1077
5/24/00
Question: I just sent my membership application last week, however, have two questions that I
would like answered now.
1. Where can I find a replacement cruise control for my 1977 Dodge 440 American
Clipper?
2. When I am filling the gas tank it appears to develop some type of blockage (an
air bubble?) which makes filling the tank next to impossible. Seems to happen only
when it has been running for a while and is hot. Any tips?? Thanks for your answers.
Colleen Jane McGrath, Seattle, WA
5/28/00
Answer:
Question #1. Cruise Control, - I have answered this for another member. (See
answer Jim &Kris ACOC # 3401 above - Webmaster.)
Question #2 Gas Tank Blockage.
Don Barker ( Jdening@webtv.net ) had this same blockage problem and
had it repaired by our Supply Officer, Mel Guerrera just last month. Check it out.
Mark ACOC#1077
Don, Mel or Colleen Jane, could you let us know
what the solution was to the problem? We can then post it on the website and
everybody can learn from the answers. Thanks. - Webmaster.
5/15/00
Question: I am looking for a power steering pump pulley for a 1976 Dodge 440 motor? Does
anyone know where to purchase one? Thanks.
Vernon Bailey, ACOC #2787
5/17/00
Answer: Vernon asked about where to get a PS Pulley for his 440. He could certainly get a
serviceable one from a wrecker. If he's replacing the PS pump, keep in mind that most
auto part dealers with a machine shop will transfer pulleys for free if you buy the
new pump from them. From an older newsletter, I see an improvement suggested which
would be useful to Vernon. A dual groove pulley is made for Ford applications (Part
Number E3UC3 D6 73CA). It might still be available from a dealer. The dual grooves
allow use of two belts, which splits the heavy load from driving the water pump and
fan. It also provides some redundancy in the event one of the belts breaks.
Eric Gibbons, ACOC #3021
5/15/00
Question: I was wondering if my 21 foot American Clipper with a Dodge 440 engine could handle
towing a 3500 pound boat? Kevin Houde
5/31/00
Answer: Kevin - Yes, your American Clipper
with Dodge 440 engine has the power to pull that boat. However, you might want to check out some additional transmission cooling options. Very important also is
your hitch arrangement. I would suspect you have a lot of tongue hitch weight, to
much for a bumper installation, and definitely to much for hooking up to the rear
of your frame, if it has not been extensively reinforced. There are some
reinforcement examples in back issues of the American Clipper Newsletters. In my opinion I would not use them as
they exist, but they are a good point to start from when you take your Clipper to
a hitch shop which you trust.
Bob Chaney, ACOC #2626
5/15/00
Hi, I am Les Mika #2813. I'm looking for the inner workings for my kitchen sink faucet. The threads are stripped on the plastic nut that
holds this together. This is in a 1976 rear kitchen model. If anyone has one for sale
or knows where to get one please let me know. You can contact me at mikawittstock@prodigy.net
or call (480) 967-7173. Thanks!
5/15/00
Questions: Overdrive
#1. Does anyone know of a transmission splitter gear or a rear axle splitter gear to lower high speed rpm's? We have a standard 360 Dodge, AT, 1975 model 820. Or is this even advisable? Not having a tachometer, what are the rpm's at 65 mph in 3rd gear?
#2. Has anyone experienced problems pulling or pushing on the holding tank shafts? They twist and unlock fine, but I experience trouble pulling on the shaft, and even more effort is required to push the shaft all the way in to lock.
#3. Are the problems being experienced on 440 engines running hot applicable to the 360? I'm running hot and am about to change the thermostat thinking it's stuck. But could a problem with the water pump exist as in the 440? Running the fan for the heater core cools the engine down to an
acceptable running temperature now, but this won't work for the upcoming summer.
Thanks for any advice I can receive on these issues.
Jim, ACOC #3019
5/28/00
Answers:
Question #2: Holding tank shaft. Its time to empty your tank, and take the valve apart and clean the groove where the valve closes. Ad grease
to the shaft and lots of grease around the 'O' ring and reassemble it. If this does not make it work better, then it time you replaced the
sliding parts, or even the whole valve assembly.
Question #3: The causes of overheating on the 360 are the same things that cause overheating on any engine. Some of them are: Heat riser
valve rusted and stuck closed. Boil out the radiator, replace thermostat, replace fan clutch, tighten fan belts, install dual
mufflers with crossover connection, and check for proper timing.
Mark, ACOC #1077
5/31/00
Answer: Eric, I concur with Mark. All the over heating problems that can apply to a 440,
can apply to your 360. One additional possibility, is your water pump. If this heating
is a new problem, your water pump is probably the proper high volume unit. f it is
an on going, long term problem, then strongly suspect that some one has installed
an inadequate capacity automobile water pump in the engine. I have not checked it
out for positive, but I suspect a 360 high performance pump from Chrysler is the
same unit as used in the 440. [Mopar # 23780196] Check with a Mopar dealer parts
department. Also any good parts store can give you information on the equally suitable
Edelbrock #8814 or its 360 engine equal. An additional tip - You need the large
throat opening [proper] thermostat, to get the full benefit of a high volume water
pump.
Bob Chaney, ACOC #2626.
5/15/00
Question: Does anyone know where I can get a Namsco Stainless Steel wheel cover with nut and cup washer? Its a 8 simulated lug type.
Thanks.
Pete
5/15/00
Answer: I was just a few days ago in the "Wine
Country RV Superstore", 2875 Santa Rosa Avenue, Santa Rosa (California),
where they were selling the Stainless Steel wheel covers with 8 simulated lug
type. I don't know if they were Namsco, all I know is that they were between
$325 and $380 a set.
Paul Devlas, ACOC #2905
5/15/00
Subject: Striping Kits. Is there a striping kit available for the Clipper?
Hi, I guess I'll be one of your newest members shortly as I'm just getting a Clipper this coming week. Just being detailed and
ready Thursday...My question is if anyone knows where or if you have a striping kit available for 1975 American Clipper. Maroon I guess is the
original. Best regards....
Ken Mattlin
5/15/00
Question: I have just finished replacing 'the' rubber gasket around all but one window in my new 24
footer. In the process it appears that the front overhead window is cracked at the base dead center. Further, the window
appears to have been subjected to EXTREME heat (like maybe fire) because the safety shield is bubbled and is turning yellow. Does anyone
know where an overhead window is available, or does anyone know a glass shop in the Bay Area that will cut one?
PAUL GIRARD, ACOC #2559
5/31/00
Answer: You enquired on the Clipper web sight about a front window for your Clipper,
Check
with the supply officer [Mel] recent merchandise order forms show 3 front upper windows available .
Bob Chaney, ACOC ##2626
5/12/00
Question: Well, we just got our Clipper back from the shop. Work was done on plugs, wires, Coil, Oil Change, Blinkers, and Gas Sending unit.
These are all in great shape now. Problem #2: Now it seems we have a bad Cam Shaft.
My Question is: Our 78 Clipper/Dodge 440/64K miles. Is this normal? Meaning with so few miles on it?
Or maybe it could be something else?
Thanks, Jerry Landrum
6/21/00
Jerry ! A bad cam shaft at 64000 miles is not a common occurrence in a Dodge 440
or just about any other engine. The one exception to this that I know of was a batch
of "soft" cams, that showed up in some General motors vehicles about 1969 or
1970. Perhaps some one out there knows of others. Since the cam shaft turns at 1/2 the
engine speed, even the cam bearings, which are relatively light and thin, as
compared to the engine rod, or main bearings would not wear out as soon as the other bearings due to the aforementioned lower speed of the cam, and because they
are not subject to near as much torque and pounding as the other bearings. In fact
low oil pressure is the best warning signal of worn cam bearings. As stated the cam would not be likely to wear down at that [or twice] that mileage. You did not
specify what your engine was doing, that some one conceived as possibly a bad cam.
What is common to our Dodge 440s is a fiber toothed cam timing gear which, among
clipper owners, is generally perceived to be a approx. a 90,000 mile "Time bomb".
Because in general experience, in a well serviced, and maintained 440 You can figure those
fiber gear teeth are starting to wear down, chip off, or be cut into
by the timing chain by that mileage. The newer replacement timing gears are all steel
and the timing chains are improved. In a rig that has been indifferently maintained
and serviced this problem could easily occur at 60,000 miles. The symptoms of a worn
timing chain and gears can be a lot of things from slipping gear teeth and getting
to far out of time to run at all, to erratic running due to your timing jumping
around a few degrees, back firing, loss of power, hard starting and other
symptoms a
good mechanic can diagnose. [ I am not a mechanic] A belated GOOD LUCK.
Bob Chaney, ACOC #2626
5/12/00
There have been comments in Tech Tips concerning a cooling air duct for the 440 engine
w/ Edelbrock Carburetor. My unit is an 821F with a 360 single barrel carb. Is there any info available about installing a cooling air duct to this carb? I don't have a newsletter library yet. Thanks for any info....
Bob Mansfield, ACOC #2953
5/8/00
Does anyone happen to know if the light in the Magic Chef oven requires 12 volts or 117 volts?
Paul W. Girard, ACOC #2559
5/5/00
We purchased a '79 Chevy 3 weeks ago, we sent in our membership several weeks
ago, but we are in need of curtains for the cab bed area & the drivers area. Will
these be in our catalog when we get it or does anyone know where we can order some.
Thanks for any help.
Dave & Linda Beck, Kettering, Ohio
5/1/00
I just purchased a 1978 Clipper/rear Bath/440 engine. Though the Coach looks great and cranks easy enough, It does run like it has a bad
cold..( spit and sputter a miss and some backfiring ) I am taking it to a shop this week and
have it gone through. Other than that I don't know much, it does have 64K on the motor.
Any suggestions or any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.
Jerry and Deetra, Landrum, Georgia.
5/1/00
We have recently purchased a American Clipper and it has pull down shades. Does any
one know where we can get new ones. They are on the rear where the kitchen is and
also where the dinette is and the couch. I was thinking that I could just recover
them. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Sandy
5/12/00
Sandy: I just completed the replacement of all shades on my '75 Clipper. Check yellow pages for window shade shop & call them. You will need to measure between the brackets for all of them, including kitchen. (There will probably be a small difference between the 2 side shades even if they look the same.) New type shades are far superior to the plastic ones and easy to maintain. The total cost for the 2 side and rear window was about $180 incl. tax.
Bob Mansfield, ACOC #2953
5/1/00
I have owned a 21 foot Clipper since 1979 and still enjoy it. I have just
come across another Clipper in good cosmetic shape. I am considering purchasing
it.
It is on the lot of a dealer here in Texas and the engine is VERY noisy. The
dealer says that the gasket on the right hand manifold needs to be replaced. I
told him that I thought there was a good chance the head could be warped. (I was
guessing.) He says that since there is no water in the oil [he checked the dip
stick and there was no "milky" color, he didn't think the head gasket
had been blown.
I know nothing about the dodge 440 and every time I have tried to fix something,
I have made it worse. Anyone have any idea about what could be wrong?
Dennis, ACOC #3039
5/3/00
Dennis .- A slapping sounding exhaust nose on a 440 is more often than not a blown
or leaky exhaust manifold gasket. The problem is very common. The rig may well have a
warped exhaust manifold which can easily be checked, and milled flat if needed.
Because of the extreme heat at this location, you should always use the proper shielded manifold
gasket. [see tech forum , or tips and hints section of web site, also check your news letter index, and news letters. Believe
me , ITS ALL IN THERE.] If the engine has a leaking head gasket. Water in the oil would be
a remote possibility, but not likely. Oil in your water, loss of water, overheating,
noticeable pressure or bubbling in your radiator while engine is running, lower than normal
power would all be things to look for. Do a compression check [or have it done] on all 8 cylinders.
That will give you an absolute answer about the head gaskets. It will also indicate if there is any piston ring problem,
any burnt valve or hydraulic lifter problem. The Dodge 440 is basically a quiet running
engine there should be no noticeable nocks, slapping sounds grinding sounds or
clatters. A leaking exhaust sound should be obvious and easy to identify.
Bob Chaney, ACOC # 2626
4/30/00
I have a family of four and was wondering if anybody has put in any seatbelts in for there children?
Kevin
5/1/00
Yes, I installed additional seatbelts in our 1976 Rear Kitchen Model Clipper on the facing bench seats (at the dining table). In the locations where I was obliged to attach to the wood, I used some steel plate (with bolt holes) to reinforce the backing -- the more you can distribute the weight, the safer your installation. Mine are bolted to the back just below the cushions -- they work really well. I am still debating about putting belts on the two captain's chairs -- that would require some fancy attachments through the floor, and would involve threading the belts up through the insides of the seats. Some long weekend, perhaps!
Doug Kreitz, ACOC #2925
5/2/00
I've done quite a bit of seatbelt work on our 1978 821F (rear kitchen w/ couch) unit. First, I replaced the lap belts for captain and first mate with shoulder
harness belts from JVC Whitney. Tough job to gat a good anchor bolt in for the shoulder. Next, I installed two belts on the couch for the crew (front and center
positions to avoid the battery box). Again from JC Whitney, I ordered the shorter
belts (about $13 a set). Remove the couch cushion and drill carefully into the top
of the generator compartment. Measure and re-measure to make sure you won't be drilling into something you shouldn't. Also, avoid the insulating panel over the
generator's hot end. Use the giant fender washers and bolts they send with the kit.
I've added a belt to the inboard position of the rear dinette seat. Make sure you
reinforce this one well. I ordered longer belts and went all the way to the floor
with them, bolting the belts to a steel panel bolted to the floor. I was concerned
that the dinette back would rip right out in a hard accident. I did not put a belt in the outboard
position, because that's where the wheel well is. I have not put belts in the front
dinette seat, but plan to. I haven't been real excited about pulling the water tank
out. Good luck and safe Clippering
Eric Gibbons, ACOC #3021
4/27/00
I have a 1976 American Clipper (440) that recently had the rear bumper torn off in a gas station. The cost to have it straightened and re-chromed is $380. I would like to know if I can get a used (or new) replacement bumper for less than $380. I would appreciate any leads.
I am not a member yet but am in the process of joining. Would the bumper be on the spare parts list?
Thanks, Carrie
5/3/00
Bumpers for the American Clipper are not available on the open market. At one time a now deceased member has a place where they could be
manufactured if we had 15 or so orders.
My suggestion to you is that $380 for a 'rebuilt' and rechromed bumper is 'in the ballpark' considering
that I did about what you said you did. (I folded my rear bumper to 90 degrees and tore it
at the fold.) I sent it off to Stockton Plating and it came back looking JUST LIKE NEW!
$380 through a shop, with the unit being installed, is not a bad price except on the pocket book.
And while you are at it, join the America Clipper Owners Club! If bumpers become available
it will be through the ACOC and they will not be available to non-members.
Regards
Paul, ACOC #2559
4/26/00
I am looking for a limiting switch for a suburban heater for a 1976 American clipper.
I was told that it was no longer available through regular parts houses. If any
knows where I can get one, please leave a message at this site.
Jack Jordan
4/24/00
Subject: fuel economy: I am considering purchasing a 1978 clipper 21' It appears to be in good shape with 50 something thousand miles. It has the 440CI engine. What kind of gas mileage can I look forward to under normal driving conditions? It has bias ply tires and seems to run fine. I Think I can get it for about $4,000.
It looks great other than a broken ladder fitting on the roof. It is a fine machine.
Any advise??
Mike, San Diego
4/24/00
Answer1: I wouldn't think too long before deciding to buy it. $4,000 is an incredible low
price for a 1978 Clipper (normally $6,500 - $8000). I, personally, wouldn't
think a second if I knew who was selling it and would buy it as a
"backup" to my 1977 Clipper. I am sure quite a few people think the
same way...... Mileage is around 7 miles a gallon. If you drive constant 55 MPH
with the wind in the back you might do a little better. If you push 65 MPH with
the wind head on you might do a little worse. (see next message). And yes,
Clippers are fine machines. Every time I take "her" out for a trip I
marvel at "her" enjoyable features and beautiful lines and all for a
fraction of the cost of the "big" guys. If you plan to do weekend
trips and once in a while a trip of a couple of weeks and you have 2 kids or
less it is the right choice........
Paul, ACOC #2905
4/27/00
Answer 2: As to the $4,000 price for the 1978 Clipper. I am aware of a 1978 Rear Bath model Clipper in quite good condition with ~50K miles for sale today in Vacaville by a private for that same price. Original owner, rig in good shape, all the original papers. I was amazed by the low price (I agree with Paul), but considering that it does not have roof air, generator or awning, it may not be too out-of-line. I strongly second Paul's recommendation on it sounding like a good buy. The Clippers are real jewels to be enjoyed for many years to come!!
Doug Kreitz, ACOC #2925
4/30/00
Answer 3: Buy it if its like you say,
that's about half price of what a well maintained 78/79 is worth. First order of business, lose the bias tires. Radials will give you better gas mileage, handling, and tire life.
Normal gas mileage ,with proper tire inflation , clean air filter , and fresh air directly to carburetor as you describe with the stock
Thermoquad carburetor should be a solid 71/2 to 8 1/2 m.p.g. At 2800 to 3000
rpm. [56 to 58 m.p.h. ] a little less if you push it to 65 m.p.h. Your
Eidelbrock carb should give you equal or maybe a little better. Since you have the proper 2
1/2 inch exhaust pipes [assuming you have duals.] And assuming you have the proper low back pressure mufflers. I
personally doubt that the Thorley headers will show you any gain in mileage. And if you tie both of your header
outputs to ANY SINGLE muffler, you will lose performance. AS to the mileage gain from over drive [and under drive in
hill climbing situations] the mileage gain is a proven fact. How much ???. IS it worth the cost ???.IF you accept the
manufacture gain figure, do the math, calculate how long it would take you to save the purchase and installation
costs over the anticipated coach usage and miles and if you anticipate rving that long, make a decision. If you
bought the coach Mike, congratulations: You have the best, and with tlc and good
maintenance it will always be the best coach in its size class.
Bob Chaney, ACOC #2626
4/24/00
Subject: Gas Mileage vs. headers & gears.
We just completed our maiden voyage from Grass Valley to Morro Bay via Santa Cruz and back (on I-5 @ 65mph). Our unit is a
Dodge 440 powered 821F. First, I should say that we had a great trip with only a few minor technical glitches. The RV looks, runs & sounds great, pulls hard and is very comfortable. I seem to have managed
6.5 mpg, although my calculations inaccuracy could put it between 6mpg & 7mpg. I have 2.5" exhaust and cold air to the Edelbrock carb via a cowling duct. I'd appreciate comments from some of you with extensive experience in these units:
1. What is the normal gas mileage achievable in these units?
2. How much difference in mileage is there between 55mph & 65 mph?
3. How much improvement can I expect from Thorley headers?
4. How much improvement can I expect from an overdrive (i.e., gearvendors) unit
?
Please take the time to respond, as with these higher fuel prices, I'm sure this is a subject of interest for many of us. Thanks.
Eric, ACOC #3021
4/17/00
Question: Where can I find a replacement emergency hatch roof vent?
It's approx. 14"X21". I tried camping world, but no luck. I would like the complete unit but could get by with just the cover.
Matt Brubaker
4/17/00
Answer: Become a member of the ACOC (American
Clipper Owners Club) for $20 a year. With your memberships number, decals, tags
and 4 newsletters (which you get when you become a member) you will get a
"Merchandise Order Form" with all the spare parts you can buy through
the ACOC. Under the category "Coach/Chassis Exterior Items" you
will find: "Hatch, forward escape, complete assembly, rectangular"
------- $67.00 With the membership it will cost you $87.00 but the membership
will be valid for a whole year (actually till February 1, 2001) and who know
what else you will need till then. Many more items can be bought through
"Clip Jr." (the ACOC parts store on wheels) which are impossible to
get somewhere else. For example the "American Clipper" fore and aft
vinyl decals in bright red, blue and white colors: $4.00 each. A bargain? You
bet! Thank you for logging on to the American Clipper website!
Paul, ACOC #2905
4/12/00
Question: I have a 1975 Clipper. Somewhere between my home and Red Bluff I lost the cover to my water heater compartment. Any suggestions where I can get a replacement one? Thanks.
Annie, ACOC #3045
4/17/00
Answer: The Water Heater Door you need can be purchased through ACOC and
Clip Jr. for $26.00. Refer to the Merchandise Order Form, page 2, near the top of the page.
Sherm, ACOC #2669
4/12/00
Question: I would like to replace my vinyl stickers fore & aft. Are they
available?
Neal, Spring Valley, California
4/12/00
Answer: Become an ACOC (American Clipper Owner Club) member for $20 per
year. With your membership number you will receive your ACOC name tags, decals,
4 newsletters with all the activities which are happening and a
"merchandise" list with all the spare parts, bolts, thermostats,
running lights, door mats etc. etc. All for virtually cost price. One of the
items on the list is the fore & aft "American Clipper" vinyl decal
with bright vivid colors for you to be had for very little money...... $4.00
each!
Another very handy item are all the back issues of the American Clipper
Newsletter. It, for example, tells you how to replace a refrigerator, i.e. how
to get the old one out and the new one in while it (the refrigerator) is too
big for the (back) door.
Paul, ACOC# 2905
4/12/00
Question: I have a 1977 Clipper with a Faulkner Awn-O-Matic S/L Awning on it.
It has worked good but now the end is broken. I have the original papers for this and it is referred to as a "Front Geared End Cap w/ Drive Rivets." Has anyone out there had this problem, and if so, what did you do about it, outside of replacing the whole thing?
Does anyone have this part on one that they have junked out? Be glad to pay for it and shipping.
Jerry, ACOC #2984
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